Thursday, 28 March 2013

The Hole of Horcum Walk


Some might say that the nicest thing about Hull is leaving it. Ignoring the cynical undertone I can find a lot of truth in this statement. The great thing about living in Hull is that you have the North Yorkshire Moors, where dramatic, wild landscapes meet quaint, sleepy villages, right at your doorstep. One of my favourite walks in North Yorkshire takes you through the Hole of Horcum. We did this walk a few times during different seasons and there are a few interesting landmarks worth pointing out.

The Hole of Horcum
The Hole of Horcum
The Hole of Horcum ranks 11th among the 100 Rudest Place Names in Britain (heh). The hole is part of Levisham Beck and Newton Dale Valley. It’s 400ft deep and stretches 3/4 of a mile across. It has the shape of a fist and is also known as the Devil's Punchbowl. Local legend has it that the hole was formed when the giant Wade, a Saxon Chief mentioned by Chaucer and Thomas Malory, had an argument with his wife Bell. He picked up a fist full of soil and threw it at her (leaving the Hole of Horcum). He missed his wife and the soil landed about a mile to the East, forming a hill now known as Blakey Topping.


Skelton Tower
Skelton Tower
Skelton Tower is not far from Levisham. It was built as a shooting lodge in 1850 for the Vicar of Levisham Reverend Robert Skelton. Apparently the vicar wrote his sermons there but rumour has it that he also used the tower to indulge in the rather worldly consumption of alcohol. Today it is nothing more but a ruin.

North Yorkshire Moors Railway
One of the most fantastic features is the steam and diesel trains running through the very heart of the North Yorkshire Moors (http://www.nymr.co.uk/). The trains start at Pickering and call at:

  • Levisham
  • Newton Dale (You will have to ask the guard to stop here for you. It’s great for starting a hike in the middle of nature. When you want to get back onto the train, just wave at the next massive steam train and it’ll stop.)
  • Goathland (Heartbeat, anyone? Also, some might recognise the station as Hogsmeade station from the Harry Potter films.)
  • Grosmont
  • Whitby (Count Dracula landed there in Bram Stoker’s novel.)
It’s a great way of exploring the Moors. The railway track from Pickering to Grosmont is 18 miles long, and it is an additional 6 miles from Grosmont along the coast to beautiful Whitby. The idea of a horse worked rail connection between Whitby and Pickering goes back as far as 1832. Whitby’s shipbuilding and whaling industry had become stagnant and the railway was built in the hope of connecting Whitby to other cities. Anyone who has ever tried to get from Hull to Whitby by public transport will know how far away Whitby can suddenly seem.


Thursday, 21 March 2013

R38: Summer Evening Disaster


Death, disease and destruction seem like an apt topic after several flu-rich days. So today’s post is about a tragic moment in Hull’s history involving a zeppelin, death and surprisingly no Germans! We’ll get back to a similar story with Germans some other time. I came across the story of the R38 when I visited the Hull History Centre a while ago and picked up a book on disasters that had happened in the local area. It’s a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon, mmyes. 

We Want a Big Ship!
The British had commissioned the construction of the airship R38 while World War I was still laying waste to Europe. The plan was to create the most powerful airship known to man, which would put the German zeppelins to shame. It was to patrol far out at sea for up to a week. The R38 was 695ft (212m) long, 85.5ft (26m) in diameter and it could reach a speed of 71mph (114kmh). Another three zeppelins of the same kind were planned but as the war ended, they just weren’t a priority anymore.
The R38 however, was already in the making. After the war, the construction was paused but an American interest in airship technology ensured that it was completed in 1921. It flew from its construction site in Cardington near Bedford to Howden in East Yorkshire, where it was to be housed. America had offered Britain $2,500,000 for the airship and Britain happily accepted. Click here for a picture of the airship in its Howden base.

Rushing the Trial Period (Because That's Always a Good Idea)
Experts, who had observed the flight of the giant from Bedford to Yorkshire were concerned - R38 had shown numerous faults, including rather worrying buckling of the grinders. They therefore advised a minimum of 150 hours of test flights before it should be allowed to cross the Atlantic. The Air Ministry however, decided that 50 hours were plenty and rushed the trials. American officers arrived to be trained and eventually take R38, which was to be renamed ZR2, to its new American home.

The Final Flight
On 23 August 1921 the zeppelin was scheduled for another trial flight to Norfolk. Once in Norfolk, the fog was too thick to land, which is why it was decided to cruise over the North Sea for the night and to try landing again the next day. However, the next day, visibility had not improved so the airship turned around and set off towards its Howden base. Various manoeuvres and trials were carried out along the way, including sharp turns at quite high speed.These turns coupled with the fact that the R38 was made from lightweight metal proved to be its literal downfall. 

On a warm summer evening at 5.30pm the R38 passed Hull near Victoria Pier. Thousands of people were on their way home after work as they witnessed a large explosion that tore the R38 in half. Onlookers reported that the midsection just seemed to crumple. The explosion burst numerous windows in Hull. R38’s burning remains fell into the Humber estuary. Boats were sent out immediately to look for survivors, which was a dangerous undertaking as the Humber itself was burning due to the engine’s petrol. You can find  picture of the wreckage being retrieved here.

America had paid $2,000,000 for the ship already, the final $500,000 would have been transferred upon arrival of R38 on American soil. Both governments agreed that they were equally liable for the loss. According to the official report, R38 exploded because it wasn’t strong enough to withstand the stress of a sharp turn at high speed.

Of the British and American crew, 44 people died. Only 5 crewmen, who had been in the back section, were lucky enough to survive the accident.

Thursday, 14 March 2013

The Humber Bridge

Looking South From the North Bank
One of my favourite features in Hull is the Humber Bridge. Situated about 8 miles west of Hull City Centre, it’s an incredibly prominent feature in East Yorkshire’s flat landscape. I’ve been on several walks towards the bridge and it always taunts you by being in sight but getting closer to it on foot is a slooooooow affair. At other times it’s a welcoming sign that I’m almost back home.

The bridge connects Hessle in Yorkshire with Barton-upon-Humber in Lincolnshire and it held the record for the world's longest single-span suspension bridge for 16 years but moved to rank 2 in 1997, when the Great Belt Bridge in Denmark overtook it. Today it ranks 7th (find the whole list here) but it is still the longest one you can cross by foot and bicycle. 


The Crossing Problem
The 2,220 metre (2,428 yards) long Humber Bridge has made commuting to and from Lincolnshire much easier but it didn’t open until 1981. So how did people cross over before there was a bridge? With difficulty. You could either cross the river Ouse near Goole, which is approximately 30 miles west of Hull, or you could take the ferry from Hull to New Holland in Lincolnshire. But the ferry could not cross the Humber in a straight line either; it had to zigzag across due to the river’s numerous sandbanks ("more like mudbanks" according to some!). From February to October 1969 there was also a hovercraft service running between Hull and Grimsby Docks but mechanical failures of the hovercraft and the strong, unpredictable currents of the Humber put an end to that pretty quickly.   

The Humber estuary was the last major estuary in England without a bridge, which is surprising considering that people have been asking for a stable crossing for over one hundred years. A first proposal was made in 1872 when Hull merchants suggested a tunnel under the Humber, which would have been much too expensive and troublesome. A bridge was proposed in 1928 by Hull City Council. However, the Great Depression of the late 1920s and early 1930s made its realisation impossible. It wasn’t until 1959 that the Humber Bridge Board was formed and the Humber Bridge Act passed, which approved the construction of a bridge. Construction itself did not start until 1973.

The Cables Are Over Half A Metre Thick
Why a Suspension Bridge?
The Humber has a shifting bed and the navigable channel along which boats can travel is always changing. A suspension bridge made most sense because it would not need a supporting pylon in the middle of the river, which could have potentially blocked the estuary for crafts. The construction was estimated to cost £60 million however, it would later on become clear that the bridge would open with debts of £150 million (Oops!). The bridge's concrete weighs 480,000 tonnes, its steel 27,500 tonnes and the total length of wire comes down to an astonishing 71,000km (to put it in perspective: earth's circumference is 40,075km). The main cables are 0.68 metres thick and each cable carries a load of 19,400 tonnes. You can find more information on the engineering genius here or read the account of the site engineer and the bridgemaster.

Always The Money
You May See It But It Is An 8 Mile Walk To Get There
The bridge was officially opened in July 1981 by Queen Elizabeth II but traffic had already been crossing since June. Unfortunately, there is no happy ending yet. Money was borrowed from the government to build the bridge and the first years of operation did not earn enough to pay back the borrowed sum. With the high interest rate the debt kept increasing. For years the bridge was struggling financially; tolls were increasing and the government came up with the Humber Bridge (Debts) Act in 1996. The interest rate was lowered and in October 2009 the government approved a £6 million grant to conduct maintenance work, which meant that tolls could not increase until 2011. By 2011 however, the Humber Bridge Board wanted to increase the tolls again, which was eventually approved. A single crossing now cost £3, so for anyone who had to cross the bridge on a daily basis, paying £6 was inevitable. Incidentally, this price increase made the Humber Bridge toll the most expensive toll fee in the United Kingdom. With the Humber Bridge Board consistently being in financial difficulties, the government decided to write off £150 million of the £330 million debt in 2012. This meant that the bridge toll could be halved to £1.50, which is the price for a single crossing in a car since April 2012. The Humber Bridge Board has since seen a 9% increase in vehicles using the bridge! 


Questionable Fame
On a sad note, the bridge has also been the scene of many heartbreaking incidents. It made it onto various gruesome lists as one of the most notorious suicide spots on earth. Since its opening in the 1980s over 200 people have jumped or fell to their death. This means that a staggering number of approximately 7 people take their life there every year. Only 5 people survived the 30 metre (98ft) fall.


My Favourite Bridge :)
But the bridge remains one of my favourite features in the area. If you ever get the chance to stand next to one of the enormous pillars, you'll see what I mean - they're pretty awe-inspiring! And the weather changes the look and the feel of the bridge completely. When it's windy and the Humber is wilder than usual, the bridge looks more menacing. If the sun is shining and the water looks still, you can almost get a perfect reflection of the bridge in the water. Fog and winter sunshine are definitely my favourite weather conditions for taking photos of the Humber Bridge, though!

Thursday, 7 March 2013

Farmers' Market in Hessle

On the first Sunday of every month there is a farmers’ market by the Humber Bridge Country Park in Hessle. The Humber Bridge Farmers’ Market and Craft Fair started in May 2008 and attracts up to 5,000 visitors each month. The approximately 90 stalls are open from 9am until 1pm. So I didn't mind not sleeping in too much as we headed towards the Humber Bridge early on Sunday morning.

Meat
There are plenty of butchers offering interesting meat! One stall sold rare-breed chorizo. Naturally, the chorizo wasn’t cheap - £12 for two sausages. Along with grass-fed beef and buffalo you could also find quite exotic meat including ostrich meat balls and kangaroo steak by Oslinc. It’s a fantastic way of trying something new and tasty. I much prefer buying meat when I know where it came from but you can expect a price increase so make sure you have enough change in your pocket. It's worth it! :)


Ostrich Eggs
Eggs
You can’t complain when it comes to the choices of eggs either - you’ll find chicken and duck eggs en masse. I have been tempted to buy an ostrich egg since I first went to the farmers’ market last year but I don’t think I know enough people who really love eggs to justify buying one. One ostrich egg contains the equivalent of 20-24 chicken eggs. If you were to turn it into an omelette you should be able to feed 12 people easily. Maybe I will just make an über-pancake!

Vegetables
I saw one stall selling fresh vegetables and fruit. One. In fairness, that’s probably all you need when the selection is big enough but I have to admit that I was a little bit surprised
as I expected to see some more crops from the area.

I was happy about the antipasto stall though selling a wide selection of mediterranean tasty treats! Mmm olives...

Baked Goods
The market has an abundance of different cakes and pies to choose from. Since I try to bake things from
scratch myself, I refrained from indulging in my love for pie too much. There were a lot of traditional favourites on display: Coffee Cake, Victoria Sponge Cake, Fruit Cake, Pork Pie, Huntsman Pie... I did venture to try one bread because it sounded exciting: The Taste of Sardinia's orange and chocolate bread with almonds was thoroughly enjoyable!

The Market by the Humber Bridge
...Nappo...?
One stall puzzled me a little bit. Quite a few people had gathered around a white table. On it were loosely scattered what looked like Nappo to me. In Germany a lot of people will know that it’s the diamond-shaped sweet of the devil. Nappo is originally from Krefeld, Germany and its invention goes all the way back to the 1920s. It has a rock hard, Dutch, white nougat centre and is covered in dark chocolate. When you’re little you’ll often put people you don’t know very well into two categories: those with nice sweets and those with Nappo. This guy at the farmers’ market must have ordered a bunch of boxes of Nappo and now sold 6 for £1. I don’t know how successful he was with his undertaking but when I walked past he had just managed to convince a man to buy some so it can’t have been going too badly. Admittedly, the taste isn’t that bad but odds are that it will break out your teeth before it gets chewy.    


Random Assortment of Chocolate
Other Food
I love fudge and the farmers’ market didn’t let me down. You can find a selection of fun flavours such as liquorice, ginger, Baileys, toffee and malt whiskey. The malt whisky one actually had me worried that it might make me tipsy - very strong but so good!

Close-by were a local honey stall (got some pickled eggs in cider vinegar with honey and chilli),
a chocolate stall and a traditional cordial stall selling interesting flavours such as rhubarb, liquorice and elderflower. I will have to try some more flavours there next time. There were loads more food stalls but I can't remember them all...

Crafts
Then there were the craft stalls. I had a closer look at a stall that sold 100% wool for knitting and super woolly sheepskins, which
looked and felt amazing! Other interesting crafty things included pestles and mortars and wooden chopping boards but I have to admit that my main focus of attention was with the food, which is why I don’t think I could do justice to the efforts that went into the crafts displayed. But if you're interested and maybe want to go yourself then then you can find the latest news and updates on the Humber Bridge Events Facebook Page or visit the market's website direcly www.humberbridgemarket.co.uk

So how was the market as a whole?
It’s a market I l
ove going to occasionally to try high-quality, local novelty products. The selection of meat is big and you can get your vegetables, cheese and eggs from a local source, which is great. Personally, I found the 80s music played by a local radio station, which had its own little stall, a little bit distracting. I’m happy buying my vegetables without “waiting for a star to fall” but each to their own.

I appreciate the effort that goes into making these local events happen and I’m sure I’ll be back some time for the fudge and maybe that ostrich egg :)